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Future climb ideas:
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Tentative list for 2008:
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Rainier, DC, my daughter's college graduation climb, July 19 . 13 years since I summitted Rainier, I'm overdue.
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- Forbidden East Ridge Direct (5.8) (party of 4/6)
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- Sharkfin Tower (party of 4/6)
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- Temple Crag - Sill traverse, Palisades, Sierras.
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- Stuart standard N. Ridge (5.7, 20-ish pitches, bivvy)
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Washington Pass outing, August 8-11: 3 days of multipitch climbing in the Libery Bell group, Wine Spires, and Kangaroo Temple. See routelist for route options.
Other ideas, big goals:
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Chimney Rock East Face Direct, 5.6, 7p (3 5th-class, the rest 3rd and 4th) I'd like to try traversing off to the SW on the descent, exploring a small part of my "21 peaks" ridge traverse project (below). OK, I'd just like to get the route done on this "man-mountain"!
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Bugaboos, esp:
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- Bugaboo Spire, NE Ridge 5.7 10p (The plum from 50 classics!)
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- Snowpatch Spire: Krause-McCarthy, 5.8+ 8p, or SW Ridge 5.8+ 6p
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- Pigeon Spire W Ridge 5.4
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- Beckey-Chouinard (5.10 12p?)
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Rainier, Kautz Glacier. 10 years since I summitted Rainier, I'm overdue.
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My new dream (nightmare?) project: "21-Peak Salute"!
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Need to try Shasta Hotlum-Boland again - or maybe Hotlum-Wintun Ridge, I
hear it's a bit more ski-friendly direct route to the summit.
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Jefferson Milk Creek Gully - continuous 600 foot, avg 25, max 45 degree
descent, short approach! (At least so it appears on the topo.) Looks
like a good June trip for intermediate+ skiers. I talked to a guy
recently who loves it and has skiied it 6 times! Sine I summitted last
year, I'm likely interested in skipping the summit pinnacle, so we could
go light without climbing gear just for the ski descent. Must be done
early-season.
Map with route options
TOPO! file (requires topo CD)
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St. Helens, Worm Flows ski descent. That is, as soon as they let us on the mountain again to look at the new, growing lava dome!
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Royal Basin/the Needles in the Olympics - a nice base camp
surrounded by a dozen rock climbs to 5.7, mostly arrayed along the ridges
above the bowl - including Mts. Deception, Martin, Johnson, and Clark,
the Incisor, Gasp, Sweat, Arrowhead pinnacles, etc. - the best collection
of easy rock climbs in the Olympics, it seems. There seems to be a straighforward
ridge loop that would hit most of the major peaks. I exhumed
this from the Olympic Mountains Climber's guide I picked up at a garage
sale of a recently deceased old climber (natural causes), along with copies
of Nick Dodge and the second Ballantine edition of Tom Hornbein's Everest:
the West Ridge.
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Sisters Marathon one-way, from McKenzie pass to Mt. Bachelor (maybe not
including climbing Bachelor!)
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Mt. Stuart N. Ridge - do the standard route this year - I've already had
the fun struggle of the full direct N' Ridge...
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Wine Spires - good 5.8 multi-pitch climbs near North Cascades Highway.
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One of the long 5.7/5.8 routes on Dragontail: possibly NW Buttress, which is very long, or the Serpentine Arete: sound rock to 5.8, continuously steep.
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Mt. Slesse, NW Buttress - another 50-classics route.
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And my ultimate high-altitude goal, Denali (since Patti won't let me go to
the Himalayas...)
Other ski mountaineering trip ideas:
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Mt Ruth - a recommended easy N. Cascades ski tour, fabulous views of dozens of peaks.
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Sahalie - the classic N. Cascades ski ascent.
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Mt. Daniel - ski or not: supposedly it's a good ski tour.
A longer list of objectives.