East Wilman's Spire, Mazamas June 30 2023
At 65, I find out if I stll have the energy for a long car-to-car climb. This was a challenging climb, with the gully snow starting to melt out, leaving a gap in the middle 8 feet high and a schrund at the top 6 feet high to down climb, with deep moats all around. We took full advantage of the two rap stations in the gully to bypass the steep scree in the gaps, and added a rap off a tree at the top of the gully for good measure. The summit spire itself was fun, though full of loose holds, requiring inspection and/or test of every hold. Note a 50mm rope just reaches the summit in one pitch from the end of the traverse, and makes a doubled rap from the intermediate rap station back to the same spot.
Bikes were overall a plus, I estimate they saved almost 2 hours R/T. But the rough trail right before the river crossing was a pain! With the early snowmelt, the river could be walked across with boots on!
Great Mazama team of 6, we made it off the technical stuff before dark. Thanks all, makes my leading job eas(ier)!