This just might be the scariest lead I've ever done, rivaled only by Jeff Hawkins and my off-route climb of the gully left of SE Buttress on Washington. After two pitches, we bailed, just like the party in front of us. The chimney pull at the top of the first pitch is waaay harder than 5.8, and the next pitch is a hunt for anything solid to climb on. Never been so glad to reach a belay bolt in my life!